Stockholm

The central square on the tiny island of Gamla Stan. To the right in the photo is Jamie Oliver's
favourite cafe, Chokladkoppen, famous for its hot chocolate.

We’ve just arrived home from my first visit to Stockholm, and I don’t know why it took so long to happen. Stockholm was a wonderful surprise, a beautiful city in an exceptional setting on an archipelago of small islands. The oldest part of the city is on a tiny series of islets including Riddarholmen and Gamla Stan, which together make up the old town of Stockholm. The area houses a number of landmarks from the 17th century such as the Royal Palace, Stockholm Cathedral, the Parliament buildings, and a cluster of narrow cobbled streets and alleyways dating back to the 13th century.

The central square on Gamla Stan features many charming Northern medieval and Renaissance architecture merchant houses; the Nobel Museum and the Stock Exchange building here are all major tourist attractions. But the most beautiful view of Stockholm – probably the view the city is best known for – is from the water.

The Stockholm archipelago encompasses both urban and rural settings spreading across hundreds of islands.

A view of Ostermalm, the upmarket area of modern Stockholm

Much of my time, of course, was spent seeking out examples of the famed Swedish design, and this took me to a number of the better-known places: Svenskt Tenn, Asplund and Carl Malmsten. Svenskt Tenn is a design house started in 1924 by Estrid Ericson and expanded in the 1930s with the partnership of Josef Frank, a Viennese designer and architect. The house style is clean, colourful and whimsical, and has become emblematic of what we think of when we think of Swedish design. Today, Svenskt Tenn is owned by the Kjell and Marta Beijers Foundation, which amongst other things actively supports the preservation of the cultural and esthetic heritage of Swedish interior design.

Asplund is a Swedish interior brand that makes its own furniture, accessories, carpets, and storage. The firm’s beautiful store in Ostermalm (central Stockholm) also carries select lines from other international designers.

The beautiful exterior of Asplund

Carl Malmsten was a Swedish furniture designer who is famous in Scandinavia for his dedication to craftsmanship and the clean, light wood furniture many of us associate with modern Swedish design. He started two schools with the intention of keeping the traditional skills of hand-craftsmanship alive, and these schools are still active. The Carl Malmsten store, right next door to Svenskt Tenn on Strandvagen in Ostermalm, Stockholm, is now owned and run by Jerk Malmsten, Carl’s grandson.

The Carl Malmsten shop in Ostermalm

Stockholm is a compact city with a population of 800,000 – a surprisingly small capital when one thinks of how many of its stores, showrooms, and museums are dedicated to design. It’s a testament to Stockholmers’ love of design and their support for the industry.

Besides the showrooms mentioned above, I visited other beautiful Swedish and international accessories and furniture showrooms, including Nordiska Galleriet on Nybrogatan, a beautiful pedestrian shopping street, and Studio Modern. At the top of Nybrogatan is the indoor market, Saluhall, a beautiful, cathedral-like space with a fantastic collection of specialist food stalls and restaurants.

Sibyllegatan, just one block over from Nybrogatan, is a quieter street, but a key destination for antiques and specialist shops like Asplund. Two of my favourites were Jacksons and Modernity; both are museum-like antique shops dedicated to Swedish and Scandinavian classics.

A selection of glassware and ceramics at Modernity, a showcase for beautiful 20th century Scandinavian design,
owned by a Scotsman.

Design Torget is a fabulous concept store that I think deserves a special mention. This chain is dedicated to creating a marketplace for new and established Swedish designers that wouldn’t otherwise have an opportunity to show and sell their designs. Every week new designs are introduced. The product choice is broad – everything from housewares and gift items to books and children’s toys, all imbued with lots of humour, colour and innovation.

Looking across the bridge from Ostermalm toward the grand Nordic Museum, just behind and out of the picture is the Vasamuseum, famous for the reclaimed ship, the Vasa.

Prince Eugene's residence surrounded by beautiful gardens, now an art museum.

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Chiswick House: A Neo-Palladian Gem

Walking through the front gates toward the front of the house

To live in London, as I did for 17 years, is to be surrounded by history and architectural beauty, but one of my favourite historic sites is Chiswick House, situated in the heart of a West End residential neighbourhood that once formed part of its grounds.

First built between 1726 and 1729, Chiswick is considered one of the most important neo-Palladian villas in the world. It’s small compared to many other grand houses of its time; an elegant jewel box of a space, really. Part of what makes it remarkable is that it was designed not by a professional architect but by the nobleman who would inhabit it, Lord Burlington, with the aid of his friend and protégé William Kent, who would go on to design or contribute to other famous British architectural landmarks.

The gateway, designed by Indigo Jones originally for Beaufort House and later moved to Chiswick House

The house was initially conceived not as a residence, but as a place where Burlington could entertain his friends and show off his fine art collection. (For example, there is no kitchen at Chiswick; the family would have stayed in an older house on the property when visiting, reserving the main house for receptions and other gatherings.)

The ground floor was reserved for Lord Burlington’s private rooms, a waiting room, and service rooms such as a butler’s pantry. Less ornate in design and not really intended for entertaining guests, this level is still very beautiful in its own way, with its restrained and carefully conceived attention to detail, serving to underscore Burlington’s respect for Palladian and Greek ideals. Among its features are a simple, spiralling stone staircase (that may have allowed the Lord to appear at parties as if out of nowhere), and what looks like a colonnaded space that leads to a beautiful arched window overlooking the park.

The lower ground floor, a view of the enfilade, ignore the rather disconcerting chair to the right.

The discreet stone staircase for Lord Burlington's private use

Yet it’s the first floor that the house is most famous for. It consists of a series of rooms, arranged enfilade-style, lit by towering arched windows that frame views of the grounds, rotating around a grand central rotunda. The rotunda would have been an impressive sight for guests, especially since it was an uncommon feature in houses of the time. The fashion for large private residences tended more to impressive layouts such as the “piano nobile,” a lofty principal floor with a vast entrance and opulently proportioned staircase, imparting an almost theatrical sense of grandeur. (Burlington overcame the floor-plan limitations imposed by his rotunda by placing his grand staircase on the exterior of the house.)

The lofty dome of the central Rotunda on the upper floor. This room forms the axis, opening up onto all the other rooms on this floor.

The Rotunda looking toward the entry to the Gallery

One of the magnificently appointed rooms on this level is the Gallery, made up of three rooms linked by small archways. The two outer rooms, one octagonal and the other round, were designed in the style of the renowned 17th-century English architect Inigo Jones; the central section features magnificently patterned apses at each end, with ornately gilded, diamond-patterned ceiling coffers painted by William Kent in the manner of the Temple of Venus in Rome, illustrated by Palladio.

A view down the Gallery's three interlinking rooms.

The Gallery is my favourite space in Chiswick, and fills me with awe each time I go back to visit. Despite the glory of the details in this room, what is most striking, to my eye, is not the lavishness of its decoration but rather the restraint. There’s something in the clean stone walls, the symmetry, the views (both interior and exterior), and the exquisite beauty of the embellishment, that makes the space read as successfully today as it did in the 1700s.

The Red Velvet Room looking toward the Gallery and the entry to the right adjoins the Rotunda. Much of the design of this room is attributed to Indigo Jones.

The sumptuous ceiling of the Blue Velvet Room. The painting of the ceiling is attributed to Lord Burlington's friend, William Kent.

The more intimate Bedchamber, the corner room used by Lady Burlington later in her life. The symmetry of this view shows the entry to the 'Closet', a small room once used as her private retreat.

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Phoenix, Sedona and Teliesin West

This was our view while eating lunch at the Enchantment resort.

We recently got back from a holiday in Arizona, and I took the opportunity to wander through some of my favourite landmarks down there, taking dozens of photographs and thinking about some of the fascinating influences this area has had on North American design.

The desert landscape around the town of Sedona is what a lot of us picture when we think of Arizona, with its turquoise skies, rich red and ochre sands, craggy scrub and bold, rugged mountains and mesas. Rising straight above the desert floor beyond Phoenix and Scottsdale is Camelback Mountain, which looks like a camel lying down; many of the mesas are named for what their shapes suggest, such as Teapot. A wonderful wild landscape of stark, bold contrasts.

In the centre of Tlaquepaque made to look old but all built in the 1970's.

In the heart of the town of Sedona is an unusual landmark: Tlaquepaque, a perfectly preserved historic Mexican village. But the most interesting thing about the place is that there isn’t a single authentic thing about it: it was imagined, designed and built, in its entirety, in 1971 by one Abe Miller, as an idealized recreation of what a village like this might have been like a century ago. Touristy and full of pricey boutiques and restaurants, sure, but still worth a visit for all that.

Much more intellectually stimulating is Frank Lloyd Wright’s winter home and architectural school, Taliesin West, on the outskirts of Phoenix. There’s been a lot written and said about Taliesin West, but what strikes me walking around the compound is the spirit of Wright that still permeates the buildings. It’s a philosophy as much as a location, the very personal vision of a singular genius.

Taliesin West was intended as a communal place of learning and sharing; he held weekly salons in the living room, where everyone was expected to dress in formal attire. (This is quite amusing as the desert/landscape and life in Phoenix at the time was relaxed and western, and of course it gets blistering hot.)

Entering the Taliesin compound, the small discreet doorway into Frank Lloyd Wright's office is just to your right.

Inside Frank Lloyd Wright's office, all the furniture was designed by him and made locally. The heavy stone walls helps keep the space cool.

One of the things that struck me was the living quarters, which compared to today’s standard are relatively small and simple. His bedroom featured two single beds, both his, with a panel between the two. He was a very productive man and slept little; supposedly, the bed on the right side of the panel was for napping, and if he was in this bed he was “allowed” to be disturbed, whereas the bed on the left side of the panel was for sleep, and a signal to leave him in peace.

His unique vision also encompassed working with the landscape in a sympathetic way. The low profiles of the buildings seem to hunker down into the landscape; angular rooflines mimic the jagged contours of the surrounding rocks. The materials themselves, in many instances, come straight from the surrounding desert; much of the compound was built by the students who lived here in the school’s early years. The interiors are practical and considered as well; light penetrates into the inner parts of the house in a deliberate, controlled way, while thick stone walls keep the space remarkably cool—air conditioning was still in the future.

Looking at the main living room from the living quarters, this green courtyard was once a desert flower garden designed and maintained by Frank Lloyd Wright's last wife, Olga Ivanovna Lazovich. The large living room was the centre of social activity.

The exterior promenade running the length of the compound. To the left is the dining hall and further down is the large drawing studio still filled with drawing tables. Noitce the dinner bell above the dining hall, still used to summon all for meals.

Interestingly, perhaps consistent with the reverses he had through his career, many elements were done very inexpensively, and the lack of lasting quality shows. Plywood was one of FLW’s favourite building materials, whether aesthetically or because of its low cost. Lucky it is the desert—any humidity and the whole structure would have disintegrated by now.

Like the prow of a ship in the middle of the desert, the view back to the old dining hall and drawing studio, just to the right is the large living room which has views both front and back.

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Carden Cunietti: An Interview with Eleanora Cunietti

This is an entrance to a Highgate, London residence. I am really attracted to the colour here notice the trim and walls are painted the same colour, this is good way to keep things from getting fussy


Carden Cunietti is a London, U.K., design firm that focuses mostly (but not exclusively) on residential design. I have loved their work for years. I accidentally fell into their shop many years ago on Westbourne Park Road in London; I didn’t know much about them, but I occasionally purchased items there for my own clients or for gifts. I still have a beautiful Italian glass salad bowl and side dishes from them that is an oval shape with a white pearlized finish. Sadly, the store is gone, but their practice continues to thrive.

Their designs are modern, clean, eclectic, and fresh, with some colourful touches. It doesn’t have that overly studied and overdesigned feel that designers’ work sometimes falls into. Clearly their work is not only for the fabulously wealthy, which is refreshing, and their work is considerate of the fact that real people have to live in these spaces.

During my recent visit to London, I had the opportunity to have a talk with one of the firm’s principals, Eleanora Cunietti. Eleanora is warm, talkative and very forthcoming person. Working with partner Audrey Carden, she focuses primarily on running the business side of the practice, but each of the partners has their own clients, and she works on the creative side as well with her own clients. Carden Cunietti has 12 designers on staff.

Eleanora is Canadian-born and -trained – she graduated from my alma mater, OCAD – but left Canada right after graduation to work in Europe. She still has strong personal ties in Canada, though; her parents and sister live here, where her mother and stepfather own two Homefront stores in Toronto. During the course of her career, she has worked all over the world. Right now, she is doing projects in France, Israel, and Poland, to name a few.

A residence in Battersea, this elegant design is deceptively simple. It's all in the details....

How would you describe your work?

It’s a lot about personality and relationships, which creates our design direction. I don’t think we stick strongly to any particular look. In some cases, you can tell who has designed a space, but I don’t think this is overtly the case in our work. That said, I think that what does typify our work is that it is colourful and decorative.

Who is the ideal client?

One that pays his/her bills without delay or dispute! Seriously, there are two types of clients: ones that offer creative projects and ones that offer financial benefit. We need both. But, to elaborate, trust is absolutely key; once the relationship is established and you got to know the client, this trust leads to allowing the designer to make decisions, and speed up the project and ultimately reduce the time projects can take. Trust makes a huge difference. Also, a client who works with you; who helps edit your suggestions; and who doesn’t keep changing her/his mind!

In this Knightsbridge master bedroom the palate is tranquil and relaxing. The room is not large but the space feels unencumbered and open.

If you had an opportunity to tell clients what knowledge or attitude they should bring to an interior design project, what would it be?

There are practical things like bringing images and magazines showing what they like. But we have methods that help clients establish a brief: we have them fill in a questionnaire, and when the project is a large one, we start by presenting a concept and suggestions for one room, to see their reaction. If after three tries on this one area are done, if we can’t get agreement with the client, then we may tell the client that we may not be the right designers for them.

Whom do you particularly admire? Who inspires you?

Although I do read magazines, I don’t really remember who may have done the work; I actually don’t get to see many other designers’ work. But I do find inspiration from the supply side. I do go to Paris and Milan to see the shows; there is fantastic inspiration to be found in that end of things.

There are several companies that inspire me continually: the Italian furniture company Promemoria; Sommerville and Scott, a British furniture maker/manufacturer; Fromental, a wallcovering design house, to name just a few. [None are readily available in Canada, unfortunately.]

Here is a house in North West London just very recently completed. The master bedroom has a soft neutral palate,
and again that deceptive simplicity that proves editing and restraint are important skills.

More from North West London

More from that house in North West London, a dressing area with beautiful wood stained units.

A Chelsea residence with a sophisticated dining area, again there is that attention to detail with the two toned tufted
banquettes cove lighting and wood trim. Look closely at the sculptural light fixture by Winnie Lui from Innermost...

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Stacey’s Top Ten List: Great Design Books (Part II)

Last time, I listed the first five on my top ten list of design books that continually inspire me. I have many more than ten favourites, of course—but it has been a wonderful exercise just trying to decide which ones I should include here. With this post, I’ll round out the list.

Like any design lover (and book lover too!), my favourites change over time—before long I may have an entirely new top ten to write about. But I’ll finish this post by telling you what’s on my bedside table right now, waiting to be read next.

6. Sixty Years of American Design, by Parish and Hadley. Actually, any design by Hadley I would be happy to view, and I have several books on his work. This one gives a broad perspective of his work and of the years he spent with Sister Parish. I prefer his later work, but an understanding of the progression of his development is very edifying. Parish-Hadley: Sixty Years of American Design

7. Magdalene Odundo. edited by Anthony Slayter-Ralph, 2004. For anyone captivated by form, whether it be buildings, furniture, or sculpture, you can’t help but be struck by Odundo’s pottery. If you haven’t seen her work, you are in for a treat. She is a master. Magdalene Odundo

8. A Passion for Collection: Decorating with Art and Antiques, 2004. This book is a reminder that what makes places special are the interests of those that reside in them. It’s the inner lives of these collectors and their vision that I find so beguiling. In the section on Gordon Watson, a well-known British collector, is a two-page spread showing a very simple interior with four Odundo vases! A Passion for Collecting: Decorating with Art and Antiques

9. From Bauhaus to Our House, by Tom Wolfe, 1981. Tom Wolfe is a very intelligent cynic.  This short book holds a wallop full of insight. You may not be interested in reading tomes about architecture, but this is a truly refreshing and honest look, and it will entertain you to boot. From Bauhaus to Our House

10. Home, A Short History of an Idea, by Witold Rybczynski. I keep meaning to re-read this book. It is one I recommend often. Rybczynski writes about the history of the home, and his insight and knowledge is really useful if you would like to have an understanding of why we care so much about the places we call our own. Home: A Short History of an Idea

Books that are waiting to be read:

The Selby by Todd Selby. Selby’s work is almost cult-like in status, so I guess it’s time to take a closer look. I’ll keep you posted on what I think. The Selby Is in Your Place

House as a Mirror of Self: Exploring the Deeper Meaning of Home by Clare Cooper Marcus. This is a book “that explores the relationship between humans and our dwellings.” As a designer I feel compelled to read this. I’ll let you know…House As a Mirror of Self: Exploring the Deeper Meaning of Home

Jansen, 20th Century Decorators. Maison Jansen is one of the most influential design houses of the early 20th century. If you’ve ever lived in Paris, you can’t avoid Jansen; its influence is everywhere. I love their work and have a small armoire in my own living room. I look forward to seeing this survey of their work and adding it to my library. Jansen (20th Century Decorators)

I could go on and on, but it will have to wait for another post…

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Stacey’s Top Ten List: Great Design Books (Part I)

Over my 25 years as an interior designer, and before that as a student of both fine art and design, I’ve amassed quite an extensive library of great design books. For this post and the next one, I’ve set myself the assignment of choosing my top ten all-time favourites and discussing how they have influenced the way I approach my work.

Trying to narrow my favourites down to only ten was by no means an easy task. My criteria for selection were simply this: which books do I go back to over and over again? Not all of the books on the list are typical design picture books (although some of the books selected are exactly that); others may fit more comfortably under the heading of Design Inspiration.

A few selections are books on design and art theory. Having studied both art and design, I couldn’t avoid including these—and since these are among my most treasured sources of inspiration, I am very glad I didn’t! So here they are, in no particular order. (Not all of these books are still in print, but you may be able to find them at your local library, used bookstores or online.)

  • Ways of Seeing, by John Berger, based on a BBC Television series, 1972. This book is about learning to see things: not just to look AT them, but to really SEE. Despite its age, the message is as current as ever. Berger’s discussion about glamour, envy, advertising, and desire is startling, and tells us much about our interest in art and design, and the industry that has grown up around both. Ways of Seeing: Based on the BBC Television Series
    >

  • Rex Ray Art + Design, 2007. Rex Ray is a graphic designer and artist, and even if you haven’t heard the name you probably would recognize his work. His graphic designs grace the album covers of David Bowie, R.E.M., Radiohead and many others. This book focuses mostly on his fine art, which is powerful and very graphic. I find it riveting. Rex Ray: Art + Design

  • A Pattern Language: Towns, Buildings, Construction by Christopher Alexander, 1977. I was introduced to Christopher Alexander while in design school and it completely changed my perspective of the built environment. This book could be used as reference, but Alexander’s editorial style never lets you forget his strong point of view: buildings and the spaces around them are for people. A Pattern Language: Towns, Buildings, Construction (Cess Center for Environmental)
  • Derriere le Miroir, the art of Valerio Adami, by Maeght France, 1970. While trawling through one of my favourite galleries and art book shops on the Ave du Bac in Paris, I found this folio. I had never heard of Adami, but his use of colour and imagery really struck me. I return to this book regularly; it’s a feast for the eyes. Unfortunately this folio is not readily available through Amazon but can be purchased through other sources.
  • Timeless Interiors by Axel Vervoordt. Vervoordt is actually an antique collector and art dealer from Belgium. His interest in antiques gradually led him into designing private residences, and his passion for detail, his knowledge of materials and history gives his work a special quality. Axel Vervoordt: Timeless Interiors
  • Next time, I’ll round out the list. Meanwhile, do you have favourite books that have shaped your interest in design? I would love to hear from you—please feel free to write with your comments. Till next time!

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    A Visit with Axel Vervoordt

     

    A taste of the vast Vervoordt showroom in the Kanaal. The industrial architecture of the brewery complement the mix of old and new furnishings beautifully.

    While in Belgium I had an opportunity to visit the internationally renowned interior designer and entrepreneur Axel Vervoordt’s eponymous company outside Antwerp. We toured the Kanaal, the company’s sprawling showroom/gallery complex reclaimed from an old brewery, and Vervoordt’s family home, the Castle. The sites are not mere places, they encapsulate his vision; spending time in them is like entering a completely self-contained world.

    A furture impression of the Kanaal converted from an abandoned brewery into a mixed working and residential environment

    Vervoordt has placed little on public record concerning his personal background, education and upbringing one gets the impression he has come from modest beginnings, yet now he moves in a rarified circle of royalty, artists, musicians and renowned art collectors. His clients are rumoured to range from Sting to Bill Gates, the pianist Labeque sisters, and Bill Blass.

    At the heart of Axel Vervoordt Ltd. – a thriving concern that employs 80 people and has interests in interior design, architecture, art collecting and curating, home and furniture collections, and real estate development – lies the strong personal value system of Vervoordt himself, best summed up in his recent book, Wabi Inspirations, on the 12th century Japanese philosophy of wabi-sabi, which encompasses asymmetry, aspirity, simplicity, modesty, intimacy, and the suggestion of natural processes.

    The ground level entry of the huge silos you can see in the image above, it will be interesting to see how they will use this monumental space. Tine, our very patient guide, helps to show the massive scale of the space.

    Our first stop was to the Kanaal, a vast abandoned brewery set on a canal in a rural district that comprises silos, warehouses, office space, studios, furniture showrooms, art galleries and as-yet undeveloped space and grounds. The space is a perfect backdrop for the Vervoordt collection, creating dramatic vignettes for their custom furniture collection, antiques, and art. According to Vervoordt’s son Boris (who is also an executive in the company), the new development complex was such a radical departure for architecturally conservative Belgium that in order to get the permits they needed, new laws had to be created governing developments that combine residential, commercial and retail space.

    The model suite showing the potential of the future residences, very much Vervoordt style, the beautiful views you can see for yourself and the scale is monumental.

    The Kanaal dining room, overlooking the water at the back. Fresh food and conversation served daily.

    Among its attractions is a casual dining room that is very “Vervoordt” in its approach: the food is made to very exacting requirements, and many of the vegetables are grown organically onsite. We sat down to a wonderful lunch that felt almost like Sunday dinner: long tables, shared conversation - all healthy, hearty and abundant.

    The furniture workshop at the Kanaal, giving us a glimpse into the workings of an operation that prides itself on excellence.

    Following lunch at the Kanaal, I was particularly privleged to get a private tour of the Castle, the Vervoordt family’s private residence. Simply put, it was spectacular – the setting was beautifully and thoughtfully restored. While it is, architecturally a castle, it is very definitely a home, designed in unmistakable Vervoordt  style. Many of the rooms’ more recent designs feature a pristine, almost meditative quality, in keeping with wabi-sabi principles. But by contrast, some of the most active spaces in the home, such as his office, meeting room and living rooms, are much more intimate: filled with personal collections, well-used furniture, photographs, and shelf after shelf of books and artifacts.

    The Castle, van's-Gravenwezel, the home of the Vervoordts. You can see the mix of the 12th century medieval fort and the 18th century country mansion, all beautifully restored in the 1980's.

     

    Views from the meeting room, part of the out buildings housing the offices prior to their move to the Kanaal.

     

     

    And there I am at the head of the meeting room table....

     

    The ground floor living room, the elaborate wallcovering is painted leather panels from Spain.

    One part of the former stables and out buildings have been converted into offices and these were the company offices prior to their move to the Kanaal; the original stables themselves have been restored, right next to the very large board room-cum-dining room you see above. The design of these spaces perfectly demonstrate the balance in Vervoordt’s design between old and new, rough and smooth, light and dark, fine and raw, precious and humble.

    A view from Axel Vervoordt's ground floor study into his meeting room, a contrast to the some of the more pristine rooms. I think the star of the space are the marquetry floors.

    Both the Kanaal complex and the Castle are a living monument to Vervoordt’s abiding passion for designs that resolve the question of how to create living spaces that achieve harmony among the architecture, furniture, art and antiques placed in them, with the human spirit that inhabits the space. These sites are more than merely well designed built environments they are a reflection of his deceptively simple philosophy. By the end of the visit, I was thoroughly inspired.

    The Castle breakfast room next to the kitchen, with a very unique display of a collection of ancient ceramics recovered from sunken ship, one of Axel's earliest finds.

     

    The kitchen, by American standards, is quite simple and small. In the cellar there is a chef's kitchen, which again is small but set up to service large dinner parties. Adjacent the cellar kitchen is a well dating from medieval times, a facinating look into the past.

     

    The Castle's second floor sitting room, a more recent design in keeping with Axel's vision of wabi simplicity.

     

    The final image is that of Axel's favourite room on the third floor, a meditative space, combining qualities of simplicity, modesty and intimacy.

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    Postcard from Paris

    How can you take a bad photograph of this...we had a fabulous dinner at Les Fables de la Fontaine, walked over to the Eiffel tower then had a beautiful walk back to our hotel on Place St. Sulpice

    Sadly we are now leaving Paris, our last stop before going home.
    Following my daughter Isabel’s university graduation in London, we went off for a week together in Paris for a little pleasure mixed with a bit of business. Paris is always a treat – I love the atmosphere. It’s always refreshing to be in a western city that isn’t overrun with Starbucks and McDonalds. The Parisians have a style all their own, and they are not about to relinquish it.
    Paris is another place I called home for three years – quite a while ago, I may add; my daughter, who is now 20, was just a toddler then – but Paris seems much the same. Many of my favourite haunts are still there and thriving.
    We lost no time, meandering around the left bank, visiting the new Hermès headquarters store on rue de Sevres, right near one of my favourite department stores in the world, Le Bon Marché. Despite the fantastic departments they have in almost everything, my favourite is their “grocery” store – really a cathedral in honour of food. This is where I shopped often when I lived in Paris. Yes, it was expensive, but it had one special advantage: they would deliver everything for free right to your door. In a city of apartments, this was a benefit worth paying for! And you would often see some very interesting personalities there. I once saw Catherine Deneuve doing her shopping, looking very much like your typical Parisian housewife.

    Le Grande Epicerie, if you love food this is worth a visit.

    We wandered around the Rue du Bac, stopping in at my favourite Galerie Maeght, and then around the corner to take in the antiques on Rue Jacob, Rue de l’Université and the rest of the neighbourhood south of the Rue de Grenelle. Another day, we went further east in the Sixth arr. over to the area around the Rue de Seine and the beautiful little galleries and antique shops in this neighbourhood.
    But we didn’t stay exclusively on the left bank; we took in the beautiful Palais Royale, the Marais and the Rue des Rosiers, the old Jewish quarter (though sadly, much of this has changed), Île de la Cité, down the Rue St Honoré to have a look at Colette – more a tourist attraction then a shop these days – and walked and walked.

    Hermes' new headquarters store on Rue de Sevres that everyone is talking about. The photograph doesn't do it justice, the space is palatial.

    In upcoming blogs we will share some of the special places we visited in more detail, such as the beautiful Musee de Nissim Camondo, the Marche des Puces, a few of our favourite places to eat, the great little hotel we stayed in and more.

    One of the most beautiful squares in Paris, the Place des Voges, down at the corner is the entrance into Victor Hugo's apartments and then just beyond is a small entrance into the beautiful Hotel de Sully, often missed but very much worth a visit

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    Postcard from London

    In the grounds of Chiswick House; the Ionic Temple and obelisk in the Orange Tree Garden. Even I can take a beautiful photograph of such a perfect vista.

    London is always overwhelming. It’s a city I know pretty well, having lived there for many years, but that just makes a visit that much harder. The more I know to do, the more difficult to fit it all in!

    In this visit, I had a long list of things I wanted to take in, and I managed to squeeze in quite a bit: a great morning at Chiswick House, the beautiful little architectural gem first built by Lord Burlington to house his art and entertain his illustrious friends; a trawl through Lassco Architectural Salvage; Columbia Flower Market on Sunday; a visit to Primrose Hill village; Westbourne Grove an old favourite area, endless antiques and showrooms along Pimlico Road and Lillie Road; a visit to Dulwich to visit the beautiful little picture gallery and see a new show on Cy Twombly and Poussin, and meandering around Barnes Village in South London, my old stomping ground, to name but a few of things Imanaged to fit in. There is a much longer list of all the plans that I just couldn’t squeeze in, but next trip for sure….

    Lamberty; one of the many beautiful antique shops along the Pimlico Road

    One has to eat, a favourite place to lunch, simple, with long communal tables, Daylesford Organic on the Pimlico Road

    Besides all that, I have a few new great restaurants to tell you about as well.

    I also have some great design interviews to share with you, one of which is with David Linley, probably best known as the grandson of the Queen, but those passionate about design may know him for his furniture designs, his showrooms on Pimlico Road and Albemarle Street and his appointment as the new chairman of Christie’s UK.

    All of this coming up in a series of future blogs…now on to Paris….

    Primrose Hill a great little village high street with lots of restaurants and shops, above is Graham and Greene

     

    Posted in Travel | 2 Comments

    Postcard from Belguim

     

    The entry gate at 's-Gravenwezel Castle the Vervoordt family home

    Well, Belgium is over, and we are now here in London. Belgium was a whirlwind! We went to meet Axel Vervoordt and see his home and studios outside of Antwerp, which was a highlight of the trip so far. So much to say about it I hardly know where to begin, for now I can say that it was an inspirational experience.

     

    Brussels; view of Old Town at dusk

    For those who don’t know Axel and his design work, he is one of the world’s major design stars. His philosophy seems to influence all Belgium design and much beyond these days. You’ll recognize the look, but there is much more to it then meets the eye – and I will be giving a little background into what he is all about when we write the full blog report soon. His oldest son, Boris, is gradually taking over the running of their ever-expanding empire. They were so lovely and welcoming, absolutely no pretensions. What a pleasure, what a place. We toured his studios, offices, workshop galleries and art installations, had lunch in the “dining room” with everyone, and then off to see his family home in – where else? – a local castle with moat, orangerie, 40 hectares of grounds, stables, gardens and more. But that’s just the beginning: this man is a human dynamo, with an international interior design and architecture practice with a client list among the rich and famous, and a very successful home collection. Axel is also a respected art collector, antiquarian, and curator of major art shows. In addition, he has become a real estate developer; the massive site of his offices, called the Kanaal, is a major project. Their own offices are just a tiny portion of the development presently under construction. The Kanaal is situated on the site of a massive abandoned brewery, complete with towering silos, which he is converting into residential, office, retail and leisure facilities.

    While we were in Brussels, we spent time looking around at the extensive antique dealers, and we will have some wonderful stories to share. Of course we got pictures of everything, and we’ll be putting many of those up for everyone to see. Of course one has to eat and we had some fantastic meals, so for those of you who plan on visiting we will share some of the best with you. We are now in London and very very busy. London is endless so I won’t even start about that now. Our next postcard will be coming soon.

     

    An image of the Axel Vervoordt showroom at their Kanaal site

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    Posted in Travel | 10 Comments